Patara – the Turquoise Coast of Turkey

The Turkish Riviera, more commonly known as The Turquoise Coast, is the stretch of coastline situated in the south western area of Turkey. It is riddled with ancient ruins, stunning beaches and water which really is turquoise.

I based myself in the sleepy town of Patara, which is 2 to 3 hours from Dalaman Airport by bus. Or three buses to be exact.

About Patara

Patara is a sleepy town which once accommodated the “Club Med” scene in the distant past, but was then discarded in favour of other more appealing towns and resorts.

Which is hilarious  because Patara is quite simply wonderful. The town, set back from the beach by 2km is sleepy and almost feels like a Thai island. With local open fronted restaurants, bars, a couple of massage options and a couple of shops to buy water and supplies.

That photo above is the main high street when it is busy. Most traffic seemed to be the Dolmus minibuses.

The Beach

The beach, reached by way of the excellent locally run minibus service, is astoundingly beautiful. The beach is 18km long, with sand dunes that reach way in land. No building is allowed and thus the beach feels natural and raw – something which is very hard to find so close to Europe.

The reason that building is prohibited near the beach is because of the rare turtles which use the sand dunes to lay their eggs. Extreme cautions is required to ensure that they are not disturbed.

Fortunately the area where the minibus drops people has a small hut selling food and drink, sun loungers and umbrellas under which I hid from the incredibly hot sun. Swimming is safe and the water is warm with just enough decent waves to keep things interesting.

Access to the beach, and also the ruins costs a small fee. I purchased a 10 visit card which was so cheap that I forgot the cost. These are purchased at the gatehouse on the road between the beach and the town.

Patara’s Surprise

Patara has an incredible history. It was an important port city for the Byzantine Empire, the Romans and even the Ottomans. It was the birthplace of Santa Claus (yes – really, but I saw no elves though) and was mentioned a number of times in the bible.

What remains of the city lies on the road between the modern town and the beach. And you really can not miss it.  The striking City Gate is a taster of what is to come, and once you reach the main site you will see an immense amphitheatre cut into the side of a hill. Next to the theatre is the parliament building, which has recently been saved from the sand dunes and restored. It houses a small museum explaining the process. Both the amphitheatre and the parliament building can be explored freely, and it is great fun to do so. The amphitheatre has two tunnels high up and one allows access to the hillside beyond. Walking back through the tunnel, I could almost imagine the sensation of arriving amongst a roaring crowd.

Beyond these two behemoths there are ruined baths, a granary, tombs and other unidentified buildings. A section of the original high street (above) has been  cleared and restored, and presumably the road continues under the earth all the way to the city gates, where it emerges once again.

Give me light!

The highlight (no pun intended) for me though, hidden in the sand dunes to the east of the main site, is what remains of the city’s lighthouse. It is claimed that this is the oldest remaining lighthouse in the world.  This too has clearly been refurbished but only stands 3 metres high at present. The rest of the lighthouse lies close by, labelled and ready for reconstruction. These pieces show some interesting markings. The evidence suggest that this lighthouse is almost 2,000 years old, and thus 60 years older than a Spanish lighthouse which currently holds to title as oldest in the world.

Shelter and Sustenance

My woefully inadequate research was just about enough to lead me to the Akay Pension in Patara. Tripadvisor and the like are full of superb reviews, though it was the Lonely Planet that I referred to. I made a great choice.

Akay is a small guest house with 13 rooms, a great pool, a relaxing Ottoman lounge, views over olive and lime trees and easy access to the town and thus the beach and the ruins.

The rooms are basic, though that is the intention. If you are spending enough time to be disappointed, rather than being in the pool or at the beach, you need to have a re-think. This is not a hotel and is more akin to a guest house for us Brits. The whole place was spotlessly clean and the owner, Kazim, is incredibly helpful and extremely busy. We learnt that his help is best sought after breakfast or the evening meals are completed.

His wife, Aysa, cooks incredible food. Breakfast was good every day, but the evening meals stand out and show that she has quite a special talent. The fish she cooked  on my third night was special beyond words. It sits up there with the best foods I have eaten whilst travelling.

When I could tear myself away from the cooking at Akay I also tried :

St Nicholas Pension and Restaurant – which has a great setting, overlooking the town, with what I found to be tasty food.

Aspendos Restaurant – which is a roadside open fronted type set up. The food was cheap and tasty, with excellent home made British style chips (that fries to everybody else).

Travellers Restaurant – Another cheap open fronted restaurant. I tried the Turkish pizza, known as pide. It was a bit bland.  I did visit at a quiet time though. I think I woke the owner actually.

I want more!

If you are the sort of person who likes to get out, like me, there are plenty of options in the area,

Those below I will be writing about soon,..

• The town of Kalkan
• The beach at Kaputas
• Kalekoy – the sunken city
• The town of Kas

Additionally, I was aware of but did not visit,..

• Saklikent Gorge – getting wet in a gorge
• Xanthos – even more impressive ruins which I wish I had seen
• Horse Riding
• The Lycian Way – an epic walking trail which is best not walked in the raw heat of the summer.

“How do I get there?” you ask…

Well, I started my journey in Cappadocia, but I had to get back to Istanbul, which is were you will probably have to start your internal journey.

From Istanbul I flew to Dalaman Airport.  Outside of the domestic terminal I found the Havas buses and the driver explained, as he forcibly tore my bags from my hand and placed them in the coach, that the bus would take me to Fethiye Bus Station. The bus swung past the international terminal before setting off.

At Fethiye Bus Station, after chowing down on some local bread, I purchased a bus ticket to Kalkan. I used the company on the far left but it is best to just ask somebody, so as to get on the next bus that leaves.

Once you board the bus it is worth asking the driver to drop you at the road that leads to Patara. But if not, once you reach Kalkan Bus Station you need to wait and board a local Dolmus to Patara. They look like this and will show “Patara” in the window.

This Dolmus will take you straight to the centre of Patara, collecting people on the way, including you if you got off of the big bus at the end of the road that leads to Patara.

This journey costs very little. A private transfer is much more expensive but may be worth it if you are a group of 3 or more, of have kids and can’t be doing with the faffing.

My Brief Round Up for those that scrolled to the end…

Patara is the real deal. The town is relaxed, the beach clean, safe and beautiful and the ruins are a real added bonus.  Go get a flight. Now.

How I explored Istanbul in 1 Day

No city can realistically be explored in 1 day, not least a city as vast and historic as Istanbul. But I love a challenge, so with only one full day to spare I gave it shot.

1. Hagia Sophia

This huge and imposing building, which dominates the skyline as you cross the Golden Horn, was originally built as a Byzantine church in AD537. Then it was a mosque when Constantinople became the capital of the Ottoman empire. But in the 1930’s the Turkish Government re-opened it as a museum.

The scale of the building becomes truly apparent once you enter the museum. The main dome is 55 metres high and there is so much open space between the ground and the roof that a haze of dust hangs in the air, giving a mystical feel to the place.

The decorations seem to be mostly Christian, but in stark contrast four huge black and gold medallions are hung high up. They bear some beautiful gold Ottoman calligraphy.

The best views can be had from the first floor, accessed by a fantastic spiralling walkway. Windows on the first floor also enable great views out towards the Blue Mosque. It is worth seeking these windows out.

Access costs 30 Turkish Lira, which is around UK£8. It is open every day except Monday. Be sure to look out of the windows. Most people seemed to miss the impressive views that they afford.

2. The Blue Mosque

An easy walk across the park from the Sophia brings you to the equally striking Blue Mosque.  Be sure to turn around and get a proper look back at Hagia Sophia once you reach the mosque.

The exterior of the Blue Mosque is quite something. The size of the building becomes apparent as you reach the base and look up.

Sadly at the moment I reached the Mosque the call to prayer started. My awful planning showing itself once again. I was assured by the tour guides outside that the interior is an awesome spectacle. I am sure it is, but I will have to come back next time to see for myself.

Access is free though, and I was told that the mosque offers clothing to tourists not dressed suitably.

3. The Grand Bazaar

This is something I was really looking forward to. I hoped it would rival the crazy, confusing and exciting souks of Morocco.

In fact the Grand Bazaar is far more organised and sedate. It is a rather pleasant shopping experience, with areas specifically for gold, handbags, belly dancing costumes and the like.

Exploring is easy and the goods on offer are more than enough to keep a souvenir hunter busy for hours. I didn’t need any souvenirs though so after an hour I moved on..

4. The Spice Market

Now this was an experience. The Spice Market was crowded and loud, with the pungent smell of spices in the air. The sellers work hard to draw customers into the shops, handing out free samples of Turkish Delight as they delivered their smooth sales pitch.

The Turkish Delight, offered in every colour and shape imaginable, makes a trip here worth it. I left with a box to devour later.

5.The Boshpurus

Istanbul is dominated by the Bosphurus, which divides the European and Asian parts of the city and is one the busiest shipping lanes in the world. The Spice Market is right at the end of the Galata Bridge across the Golden Horn at Eminönü, and here a great number of tour boats and ferries dock.

The tours, venturing in all directions, take 2 to 3 hours and are priced from 20 Turkish Lira (UK£5.50).

As I was trying to cram as much into the day as possible I opted to take the passenger ferry to Üsküdar instead, which is over on the Asian part of the city.

The views were great from the top deck, and if you can’t spare 2 hours for a tour this makes perfect sense.

Üsküdar seemed a little unremarkable, so I stayed for a Turkish coffee and then boarded the ferry back to Eminönü. I sat on the other side to get a different view.

The journey cost 4 Turkish Lira each way. Payment is made with some metal tokens, available from the slightly confusing machines outside the ferry terminal. Luckily there always seems to a helpful official close by in Istanbul.

If you too are short of time you should consider the ferry trip. There are various destinations and the views really are splendid.

7. Tünel

I love finding slightly unusual things to do and I spotted this on a map I was carrying around with me.

By this point in my self guided tour the sun was beginning to set and I was determined to eat in the Galatasary area, which is high up above the Golden Horn. I crossed the Galata Bridge, trying a fish sandwich (balik ekmek) on the way, and then I sought out the Tünel funicular railway.

This short service saves a rather tiring walk up the hill. It is the only funicular railway I have ever seen that is underground, and in fact this is the second oldest underground railway in the world. It was built in 1875, 12 years after the London Underground was completed.

It only takes a couple of minutes to reach the top station, but the tunnel is well lit so I could see that it was brick lined. I guess I am a bit of an engineering geek and I found this a really interesting experience. So much so that when I ventured back into the tunnel for a photograph a local chap became concerned for my safety.

The  Tünel costs 4 Turkish Lira per journey, a small price to pay to save your energy for…

8. Istiklal Street

After visiting this absolutely brilliant and very long pedestrianised street I can say with great confidence that Istanbul has one hell of a night-life.

The road starts close to the Tünel and leads all the way to Taksim Square. As I walked I encountered street performers, happy couples, excitable kids and endless restaurants and snacks that made my mouth water. The street has a great buzz in the evening.

The side streets and alleyways that lead away from Istiklal street are quieter but just as interesting. I saw endless bars and music clubs as well as cheaper restaurants.

I can not speak for any other evening destinations in Istanbul, but I am pretty sure that Istiklal Street would not disappoint.

What I Missed

Well, that wasn’t a bad effort for one day. Though I did miss the Topkapi Palace – but I managed to visit the morning after before my flight.

I also think the longer Bosphurus Cruises would be worth trying.

And I wish I had managed to get inside the Blue Mosque.

What Would You Have Done Differently?

I admit to not liking planning, so I always miss something great. Let me know what your favourite Istanbul sites are and tell me where I went wrong…

 

 

 

My Ten Favourite Things About South East Asia

South East Asia is mad. It’s also very diverse. It can be ugly. It can be challenging. But I love it.  Here are my ten favourite things I have encountered whilst travelling around South East Asia. Have a read, and let me know yours.

Thai Minibuses of Doom

If you have ever travelled around Thailand in an economical fashion you have probably sat in one of these. You have also probably clenched your buttocks in fear and held on for dear life. And you have probably scratched your head in confusion as you were dumped at the road side and told to wait in the middle of nowhere for no clear reason.

If you have no idea what I am talking about, it is probably best that you can recognise these vehicles. They tend to look something like this. With varying amounts of chrome accessories.

I have no idea how the whole system of Thai minibuses work. Without doubt they are vital. They are used by backpacker and locals alike and they seem to ply every possible route. There is no evidence of a timetable and they seem to set off once they are full. And when I say full, I mean stuffed to the ceiling with people, bags and whatever goods the locals want to transport.

That’s me below with the ginger facial hair. And those two guys had never met until the point when they realised that they had to share a seat for an uncomfortable few hours. It was a big seat, stretching the width of the minibus. But, in Thailand the back seat is always used for storing rucksacks and boxes of mysterious Thai cargo. The driver excavated that little alcove for them to climb into.

You will find one of these things very easily. Somebody will happily tell you which bus is the one for you, and the owner, who will look and behave like an Automobile Pimp, will happily sell you a ticket.

Some time later, when you depart at the speed of light, you may well think your next stop will be your destination. But not necessarily.

During more than half of my Thai Minibus adventures I have been dropped off in some random dusty location and told to wait along with most of the other equally confused passengers. The parting shot of the driver is to slap a coloured sticker on the clothing of the passengers who are being ejected. Then he will speed off.

Everybody looks at each other and gradually they start to discuss the situation. Eventually somebody goes to ask the only person around, the man selling ice creams, and he says to wait. Because he knows how the system works.

At some point later, another minibus will appear and collect whoever is wearing a particular colour sticker. This minibus may well not really have enough room, which is what happened to the two guys up there.

The minibus drivers are clearly on a bonus of some sort to arrive on time.  I once had to counsel a Scottish chap who had sat in the front passenger seat of one of these things. His eyes were unblinkingly glued on the road, aside from frantic glances at the speedometer.

But despite all of this, I have always arrived safely and only a little shaken, dehydrated and hungry. And with hindsight each trip has been enjoyable in it’s own special way.

Pad Thai

Oh wow! I already loved Pad Thai, the national dish of Thailand, long before I first set foot in The Land of Smiles. But when I first tucked into a genuine Pad Thai, in 2010 in a dark and dingy Thai alleyway, I knew I had found my perfect food.

Chewy noodles, fish sauce, egg, crunchy crushed nuts, tofu, bean shoots, tamarind, garlic and few other ingredients come together in perfect union with a squeeze of lime. and some meat or prawns.  This one here is wrapped in a clever egg omelette net.

It is cheap, incredibly satisfying and available absolutely everywhere in Thailand. Make sure you try it when you get there.

Temples in Cambodia

The Temples of Angkor, the only remaining remnant of a once great empire, is the very reason I first set foot in South East Asia. The awe inspiring photographs of Angkors Wat and Thom had been calling to me for many years.

To stand and behold the behemoth that is Angkor Wat is enough to make you question whether humans have actually moved forward in the past 900 years. Angkor Wat was and still is the largest religious building in the world.

When the French “rediscovered” Angkor in the mid 19th Century the French Explorer Henri Mouhot was taken to say…

 “At Ongcor, there are …ruins of such grandeur… that, at the first view, one is filled with profound admiration, and cannot but ask what has become of this powerful race, so civilized, so enlightened, the authors of these gigantic works?”

In fact they were so sure that the Cambodians of the 19th century could not be descended from the builders of this astonishing city that they toyed with the idea that the Egyptians must have been responsible. Which probably prompted a knowing Cambodian farmer to smugly mutter…

“Good work Frenchy!”

Angkor Wat is the biggest single temple at Angkor, but for me it is in fact not the best. For starters it is intact, having actually remained in use over the centuries. I prefer my temples to be crumbled. But Angkor has many other temples, many of which were lost to the jungle for many centuries. Some retain this mysterious lost atmosphere, and for me there is not much I like more than clambering over the moss covered ruins of the temples Ta Prohm and Beng Mealea. Or gazing in wonder at the amazing detail of Banteay Samre.

It takes time to tour these astounding monuments Not least because the daytime heat in Cambodia is very draining. I would recommend 3 days if you are visiting. And prepare to be blown away.

Mango Lassi

Talking of the heat, nothing pleases me more when I am hot and tired than a cold, refreshing Mango Lassi.

Vietnamese Tourist Tax

Any well travelled person will agree that extracting lots of money from tourist is a trade that crosses all international borders. I’ve been ripped off and guilt tripped in most countries, but the worst and in turn most entertaining is Vietnam.

In the defence of Vietnam, when I visited I was pretty naive. But they knew it and tried to milk me dry. Just to be clear, you can find a list of some of the Vietnamese scams here.

Having read that I came off lightly actually . But I still paid for a first class train ticket and ended up in a really nasty bunk. And I paid for a wonderful tour from Ho Chi Minh City to Cambodia and got not much in return. And every single shop, which is a lot as every house seems to be a shop in Vietnam, does not show prices. You can almost see the shopkeeper’s eyes brighten as they think about what price they can get away with,

But I still loved Vietnam. I would go back, though a quick Google search suggests many don’t.

The Horn of Corn

“The what?” I hear you ask. Well, that is in fact the name I gave to a tasty Thai snack because I can’t read the packaging. They look like this.

These crunchy corn snacks have seen me through many a tiring journey. They are so bloody morish that I have to eat a whole bag, and they only seem to come in big bags. Even better, I discovered that the Thai shop close to my home town in the UK imports them! Woohooooo!

Smiles

The people of South East Asia really do know how to smile. They don’t smile all the time of course. That would be weird, and probably annoying. But they just seem to have a happy outlook on life. Even these kids who live in the middle of nowhere in Cambodia at a brick kiln.

Dodgy Counterfeit Gear

It’s everywhere in South East Asia. Most notably, at least as far as I can tell, in Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam. And the shopkeeper will swear blind that the $5 pair of Oakley Sunglasses (negotiated down to 3$ of course) are completely genuine.

The whole situation left me in a bit of a quandary. If I was planning on bringing a load back to flog on eBay I would be a crook. But I just wanted a cheap rucksack, and the “North Face” offering seemed to tick all the boxes.

And the “Ray Bans” were only cheap but they did a job. I’m not so sure about the “Tag Heur” watch though – it can’t always be 6.30!

Tuk Tuks

Yep. Those three wheeled things that are nothing but a novelty in the west – they seem to stitch the very fabric of the rest of the world together. I’ve ridden them in Asia, South America and I even saw one in Morocco.

They come in many guises, from the slow relaxing variant in Cambodia to the crazy, mental version that tears up the streets of Bangkok.

They are most famous in Thailand I would say. Putting the terrible traffic congestion aside, a Tuk Tuk is a very quick way to get around Bangkok. The drivers can weave them in and out of traffic with great skill, and seem to take great delight in extracting screams and whoops of joy from their passengers.

The drivers also like to drive a hard bargain. They could teach the Vietnamese a thing or two, but I always seem to reach an agreeable price. Oh, and don’t forgot to tell them you are not interested in their brother’s suit store or their friend’s shop.

Beaches

I’ve saved the very best until last. South East Asia has lots of incredible beaches. Some of my most relaxing times have been spent on Ko Lanta in Thailand and on the Perhentian Islands in Malaysia.

But finding a good beach that suits your requirements is not easy. I like a quiet sandy beach with good swimming, low key infrastructure and plenty of Mango Lassis.

That up there is a great little beach on Ko Lanta in Thailand. Note the clean sand, calm waters, forest back drop, and of course the dodgy North Face bag. And when I was dropped off by boat at this beach on the Perhantian Islands in Malaysia I knew I had found my kind of beach.

So, what about you?

This is my top ten, but you most certainly will disagree. So what do you love about South East Asia? Add a comment, or a Tweet, or even a Facebook comment and let me know.